Lima to Santiago

LE FRANCAIS EST EN ITALIQUE APRES CHAQUE PARAGRAPHE EN ANGLAIS (desolee, c'est pas super pratique pour vous, mais bien mieux pour Sarah qui doit tout vous traduire!)

After our Huayhuash trek, we left grimey Huaraz as quickly as we could, which meant the same evening, despite the efforts of our incompetent guest-house, who had lost our bus tickets (at least that seems the most likely explanation for their disapperance).
Apres notre trek a Huayhuash, on a quitte Huaraz aussi vite que possible, c'est-a-dire le meme soir, malgre les efforts de notre guesthouse completement incompetente qui a perdu nos tickets de bus (ou du moins c'est l'explication la plus logique pour leur disparition).

We have adopted the popular policy of using night buses to save on hotel bills. The downside of this is that you get little or no sleep, and the following day is somewhat wasted, and we are inclined to spend it sitting around in restaurants and cafes, spending the money that could have paid for a cheap guesthouse. The result of this laziness has been seeing considerably fewer museums and churches than Lonely Planet would suggest, and some slight regret at not having profited more from our travels. However we do need to start building our relaxation reserves, seeing as home and work are now close.
Pour economiser en factures d'hotels, on prend souvent les bus de nuit. Le probleme, c'est qu'on ne dort pas ou peu, et la journee suivante est gaspillee: on vegete dans les cafes et les restaurants, en depensant l'argent qu'on aurait pu utiliser dans une guesthouse pas chere. En consequence, on a vu beaucoup moins de musees et d'eglises que le Lonely Planet suggere, et on regrette un peu de ne pas profiter plus de notre voyage. Mais bon, on a besoin de commencer a stocker en relaxation, parce qu'on sera bientot a la maison, et au boulot (pour Corrin; Sarah a encore le temps de voir venir!).

For a second time, we spent one day in Lima, specifically the shinier Miraflores suburb on this occasion, which is where a large part of the wealthy Limenoes live, work, shop and gamble. People live comfortably here, as a Limeno friend would later confirm. For the visitor, there is not much apart from museums (which we didn´t visit), so we ate, pretended to be interested in the Alliance Francaise center so we could use their toilet, and wandered along the cliff-top road, trying to see how far we could see, which is about one kilometre. The thick mist (part pollution, part natural) spoils a not very attractive city, and gives it a claustrophobic feel. The one advantage is that the massive slums which surround the city cannot be seen from Miraflores, which may be preferable for the inhabitants of both. Lima´s population is 8 million, the same as Bolivia.
Pour la deuxieme fois, on a passe un jour a Lima, plus particulierement dans le quartier de Miraflores cette fois-ci: c'est l'endroit ou la plupart des riches Limenoes vivent, travaillent et jouent leur argent. C'est un endroit ou la vie est tres confortable, comme a confirme une copine de la-bas. Pour les touristes, il n'y a pas grand-chose, a part des musees (qu'on n'a pas vus), donc on a mange, pretendu etre interesses par l'Alliance Francaise pour pouvoir utiliser leurs toilettes, et fait une promenade le long de la cote, en essayant de voir le plus loin possible, c'est-a-dire a peu pres 1km. La vue est gachee par la brume epaisse (pollution + causes naturelles). L'avantage, c'est que les bidonvilles qui entourent la ville ne peuvent pas se voir de Miraflores, ce qui est sans doute preferable pour les habitants des deux cotes... La population de Lima est de 8 millions d'habitants: autant que dans la Bolivie toute entiere!

Next stop Arequipa, like Sucre known as "The White City", reputed to be nice, and recalled as such by me, from my visit a few years ago. We didn´t have any particular plans other than to contact some local friends of some French friends. That turned out not to be possible, but we decided after all to do the popular two day tour to the Colca Canyon (this idea was now acceptable to me, having learned that the road there had been paved since my last visit).
Arret suivant: Arequipa qui, comme Sucre, est surnommee "La Ville Blanche", est ma foi bien agreable. Notre plan etait de rencontrer des amis d'amis francais. Malheureusement, c'est tombe a l'eau, mais on a quand meme decide de faire un tour de 2 jours au Canyon de Colca (l'idee etait supportable pour Corrin qui a appris que la route a ete goudronnee depuis sa visite en 2000).

The other thing that all visitors to Arequipa do is visit the Santa Catalina Monastery, which takes up a block or two. The combination of architecture (we think a bit Andalucian even though we haven´t been there), and terracota and indigo paint is stunning. Away from the monastery and plaza, the rest of Arequipa is somewhat mixed, with attractive older buildings made of the pale, volcanic`sillar´, which gives rise to name `White City´, interspersed with modern mess. Sucre, which is white because it is painted white, is the clear winner.
On a aussi visite le Monastere de Santa Catalina, qui est immense et magnifique. L'architecture est inspiree d'Andalousie (ou du moins c'est ce qu'on nous a dit; ca donne envie d'aller faire un tour par la-bas!), et la peinture couleur terracota et indigo est superbe. A part le monastere et la place principale, Arequipa est un melange de vieux batiments faits de pierre volcanique, le "sillar" (d'ou le nom de "Ville Blanche, puisque cette pierre est gris claire), et de batiments modernes. Sucre, qui est blanche parce que peinte chaque annee, gagne haut la main.

Santa Catalina monastery






































The Colca Canyon´s big claim is that it is the second deepest canyon in the world (after the less accessible one to the north). However it´s not what I think of as a canyon, but a valley, with steep sides in places. The standard tour involves visiting the hot baths which were much developed since 2000, and stopping at numerous towns and viewpoints along the valley to have a bit of local history explained, and the opportunity to enrich the locals. This can be done by buying food or handicrafts, or taking photos of, or with local people or animals. The photograph trade, especially the one involving women or children in traditional clothes, pulling a llama, is a bit peculiar, and while it´s basically a win-win business, the overall scene of gringo photographers lined up in front of the live exhibits, is more interesting than the exhibits themselves.
Bientot traduit...

one arm feeds four growing eaglets for a week



















cultural exchange in the Colca Canyon
- many of the tourists are Peruvian













The highlight of the Colca Canyon is the Cruz del Condor, which is believably claimed to be the best place for viewing condors in the Andes. For me, this alone would have been worth the journey from Arequipa, because they performed very well, soaring backwards and forwards, only a few meters away from us couple of hundred spectators. They roost on the cliff below the viewpoint, and soar past while gaining enough height to disappear off for their day´s work.

mature male Andean Condor (the rest are boring brown)
































Seeing as it´s winter, we decided not to bother with any of the Chilean beaches, on the way to Santiago, but did make a one night stop in Tacna, the last town in Peru, where another of the friend´s friends lives. Tacna´s only tourist attraction is a railway museum, of very limited scope, and with a surprisingly high entry fee. We were kindly let in, after hours, to kill some time before meeting Maurizio for dinner. When we explained our disappointment to him, we were embarrassed to discover that he had been somehow involved in setting it up, working as he does for the local government, and offered to have a guided tour arranged the next morning. We gratefully declined, feeling we needed to make progress, and learned a good bit about regional economics instead.

After crossing the border by taxi, to Arica, Chile´s northern outpost, we decided to get to Santiago in one 28 hour hit. The late afternoon sun, and spectacular, misty, scenery heading out of Arica gave me irrational feelings of contentment about the journey ahead. The final 24 hours were pretty awful, either being too uncomfortable to sleep, or being bombarded with rubbish films at high volume. Thank god our remaining bus trips will be shorter, and we´ll be going for the three abreast option.

about 2000km north of Santiago



















Santiago was a breath of fresh air (metaphorically only), almost as good as being at home. While slightly daunted at arriving late, in a huge city, without any accommodation arranged, it turned out to be easy, thanks in part to the generous locals. Going first to a restaurant, the staff were friendly and liked their job. The people on neighbouring tables didn´t stare at us, or ask us where we were from and where we were going. Just like Europe! We asked the waitress if we could leave our big bags while we investigated the hotels, and rather than look confused, disappear to ask her boss, and come back and say no, she just said "yes, no problem!"

Santiago by day reminds me slightly of Hamburg: it´s cool and misty, many streets are cobblestone, they are wide and straight, with old tramlines embedded, and there´s an air of industrial dilapidation. But in Santiago it´s not really dilapidation; life goes on, and it´s just a bit scruffier than Europe.

6000m Andean peaks are only a few kilometers away, but you wouldn´t know without looking at the map. Santiago has the same claustrophobic smog as Lima, but when we visited at least, the cooler autumnal air made it feel a more relaxed and pleasant place. As well as lazing about, we visited "La Moneda", the buiding where Michelle Bachelet works, the courtyard of which contains some modern sculpture, open to the public, and the impressive La Moneda Cultural Centre, underground. I was keen to know if La Moneda was where Allende shot himself when Pinochet turned up with his army, but didn´t like to ask.

La Moneda - we didn´t find anything else in grey Santiago worth getting the camera out for

Cordillera Huayhuash

Ca y est, on a fait notre semaine d'effort physique; maintenant, a nous les journees relax! On rentre d'un trek de 8 jours... Genial, magnifique, a couper le souffle - dans tous les sens du terme!

On etait dans la Cordillera Blanca, et plus precisement dans le coin qui s'appelle Huayhuash: c'est la que se trouve la montagne Siula Grande, ou John Simpson a failli mourir (cf "La mort suspendue", livre et film). On a marche entre les altitudes de 3500 et 5000m, mais comme on etait deja pas mal acclimatises on n'a pas souffert de l'altitude.

On a eu le luxe d'un guide pour nous deux (normalement on devait partir avec 2 quebecois, mais ils se sont defiles...), un horseman, ses trois anes et ses deux chevaux (on a paye $50 pour un cheval de secours en cas d'accident, pour nous amener a un medecin, et le horseman a estime que le cheval risquerait moins de s'enfuir la nuit s'il etait avec son pote). En fait, le plus chouette, c'est qu'on a pu monter a cheval plus ou moins quand on voulait!!! Quand on se sentait un peu fatigues, hop, en selle! Je crois que ma cousine Anne-Francoise va etre un peu jalouse, la...

En parlant de bebetes, on a eu l'honneur de la compagnie de Blackie, un chien super sympa qui suit les trekkers - amour de l'homme ou du saucisson? En tous cas, il a garde notre tente ferocement deux nuits entieres (contre les vaches qui pensaient avoir le droit de brouter dans le coin). Pas terrible pour bien dormir, mais on n'a pas pu lui en vouloir... Il adorait les calins et je dois dire que grace a lui je commence a bien aimer les chiens. Je me suis meme dit qu'avec une maison de campagne ca pourrait etre chouette... Mais je suis revenue a moi quand Blackie a choisi d'etre infidele en continuant le trek avec deux nanas suisses!

Le 2eme jour du trek, pour l'anniversaire de Corrin (33 ans deja!), on a eu un temps magnifique, des paysages splendides, et une petite soiree surprise bien sympa, avec un peu d'alcool que j'ai achete et que le guide a porte sur son dos tout le premier jour (¡Gracias Ronald!). J'ai invite des compagnons de route pour notre petite soiree devant la tente de Ronald, qui nous a concocte une specialite d'alcools melanges et rechauffes.

Fini le bla-bla, regardez plutot les photos! (en bas)

Sarah

IN ENGLISH NOW:

That's it, we've done our week of physical effort; now, welcome to laziness! We've just come back from an 8-day trek... Great, magnificent, breath-taking - in every sense!

We were in Cordillera Blanca, and more precisely in the area called Huayhuash: that's where the mountain Siula Grande is, where John Simpson nearly died (cf "Touching the void", the book and the film). We were between the altitudes of 3500 and 5000m, but as we were already quite acclimatized, we didn't get any altitude-sickness.

We had the luxury of a guide just for us (we were supposed to leave with 2 Quebecois, but they sneaked out...), a horseman, his three donkeys and two horses (we paid $50 for one emergency horse, in case we had an accident and needed to be taken to a doctor, but the horseman thought there would be less risk of the horse escaping in the night if he had his mate with him). It turned out to be great, because we could horse-ride more or less when we wanted to! When we were a bit tired, hop, we got on! And our guide could easily follow the pace, he's so fit!

Talking about animals, we had the honour of Blackie's company for a few days, a dog who follows the trekkers - love of men or of sausage? He guarded our tend during two whole nights against cows who thought they were allowed to graze around... Not great for sleeping, but we couldn't bring ourselves to be pissed off... He loved cuddles and I must say that thanks to him I'm beginning to really like dogs. I even thought that in a country house, it could be quite nice... But I came back to my senses when Blackie decided to be unfaithful and continue the trek with a couple of Swiss girls!

On the 2nd day of the trek, for Corrin's birthday (already 33!), we had great weather, magnificent landscapes, and a nice little surprise party, with a bit of alcohol that I'd bought and the guide had carried all day on the first day (¡Gracias Ronald!). I invited some trekking mates for our little party in front of Ronald's tent, where he concocted us a specialty of mixed and warmed alcools.

But enough bla-bla now: look at the photos instead!

Sarah

Ronald et les chevaux
Ronald and one of the horses



















au travail, le cheval!
letting the horse take the strain



















la vue du mirador San Antonio etait super
the view from the San Antonio mirador was worth the climb



















beau coucher de soleil
nice sunset



















un ane feignant
one of the donkeys having some well-earned rest



















Blackie profite du bon saucisson avant de nous abandonner
Blackie digesting some expensive saucisson before deserting us














le seul moyenne d´arriver au dernier camping
the only way to get to our final campsite

Cuzco and Machu Picchu

NOTE: due to this infuriating Blogger software, I am unable to publish the post as it appears on the editing page.. so photos and captions will appear in the wrong places.. sorry, I can´t do any better!

Next stop after Lake Titicaca was Cuzco, a six hour bus ride away. Not quite into the high season, it is crawing with tourists, and with people trying to make money out of tourists. Despite this, it really is a great city, from many points of view, and we loved it. In fact, if it wasn´t for tourism Cuzco would be a less comfortable place to visit. There can´t be anywhere else like it.

Cuzco´s Plaza de Armas

The main reason for the popularity of course, is the history, and most visitors´main objective is to visit Machu Picchu. The Cuzco authorities do well in extracting as much cash as possible from visitors, and the cheapest way to visit Machu Picchu is now several times less cheap then when I visited seven years ago (principly because visitors are now obliged to use a special train). The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is now booked up several months in advance and costs three times as much as seven years ago. We took the cheapest train option, decided to save hiking for elsewhere in Peru, and Machu Picchu was well worth what it cost us. I was no less excited for it being my second visit.

the classic Machu Picchu shot (everybody needs their own)

A Machu Picchu temple - part built, part hewn

The tourist money pouring into Cuzco at an ever increasing rate (we saw a lot of hotel construction in Aguas Calientes, below Machu Picchu) is evidenced by countless hotel, bars and shops, many of them catering for people with a lot to spend. The ticket office for the tourist train is sparkling, computerised and efficient, quite unlike anything in Bolivia, and probably much of Peru. In 2000, Cuzco was a major tourist destination, but looking back, it was amateurish compared to today´s effort.

Cuzco roofs, and a small fraction of the tourists

Cuzco was the capital of the remarkable Inca empire, which the Spanish encountered when they came to expand their own. It´s often overlooked that the Inca period was little more than a flash-in-the-pan of of Andean history, but the Spanish did interrupt the largest Andean empire up to that point, and one with magnificent masonry skills. It´s the stonework that I think of first when I think of the Inca´s; there´s a lot of it lying around, it´s very impressive, and it comes in many flavours, accoding to the purpose and importance of the building. The obvious feature is the lack of mortar (usually), but the size and degree of shaping of the stones varies hugely.

Some of the unfinished, high quality, work at Ollantaytambo

Inca walls in Cuzco

Sacsahuayman, above Cuzco, where the largest stone (not in this picture) weighs 300 tonnes

We arrived today in Lima, for a very brief stop before a night bus to Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. Sarah watched the changing of the guard on one side of the plaza, while I watched pigeons an vultures settling down for the night on pointy bits of the cathedral.

the fountain in Lima´s Plaza de Armas

Nouvelles fraiches / Fresh news

Juste un petit mot pour ceux qui se demandent ce qui nous arrive, et desolee j'ai pas le temps de faire dans les details:

- on est partis de Sucre lundi soir, pour un trajet en bus plutot memorable a mourir de froid entre 5 et 10 degres (maintenant on a compris: il nous faut nos sacs de couchage pour les trajets de nuit)!
- on a passe quelques heures a La Paz, creves mais contents de retrouver Mien, une copine belge.

a bit of La Paz, from behind a tree



















- puis direction Copacabana, pas la ville bresilienne reputee pour ses plages, mais la petite ville bolivienne avec une cathedrale magnifique, sur les rives du lac Titicaca (ah, qu'est-ce que ce nom m'a fait rire quand j'etais petite, mais ici c'est tres serieux, d'ailleurs c'est le berceau de plusieurs civilisations precolombiennes, dont la civilisation Inca si j'ai bien compris); de la on a fait une petite rando pour se mettre en jambes (mais a 4000m, on se fatigue vite!), et un tour en bateau pour voir une des iles du lac, genre attrape-touristes).

Illampu, Ancohuma, and Titicaca fisherfolk













Copacabana (Bolivia)













- puis traversee de la frontiere pour le Perou, et sejour a Puno, toujours sur les rives du lac ; de la, on est partis passer une nuit a Amantani, une petite ile splendide avec des ruines pre-Inca et un rythme de vie super tranquille. Corrin est venu ici il y a 7 ans, et on a reussi a retrouver la famille qui l'avait heberge; ce sont des gens bien sympa! On a profite d'un coucher de soleil nuageux mais quand meme splendide, vu du sommet de l'ile. Tres romantique!

Amantani (and Sarah)














Moises and family, Amantani













- nous revoici donc a Puno pour une nuit, et on prend le bus pour Cuzco demain matin. A nous le Machu Picchu, a moins qu'on aille a un autre site Inca moins grandiose mais aussi moins touristique...

Sarah

EN ANGLAIS:

Just a quick note for those who wonder what we're up to, and sorry I haven't got enough time to get into the details:


- we left Sucre on Monday night, for a rather memorable bus ride, dying of cold at 5 to 10 degrees (we've learnt our lesson: no more night bus rides without our sleeping bags)!
- we spent a few hours in La Paz, tired but happy to meet up with Mien, a Belgian friend,
- then off to Copacabana, not the Bresilian town renowned for its beaches, but the small Bolivian town with a beautiful cathedral, on Lake Titicaca (this name sounded really funny when I was a kid, but it's very serious here, and indeed, it was the birthplace of more than one Precolumbian civilisations, including the Incas if I understood correctly); from there we went for a short hike (but at 4000m, we get tired easily!), and a boat trip to see one of the islands, in a tourist trap kind of style),
- then crossing the border into Peru, and short stay in Puno, still on the lake shore; from there, we went to spend a night on Amantani, a small but lovely island with pre-Inca ruins and a very pleasant lifestyle. Corrin was there 7 years ago, and we managed to find the family where he'd stayed; they're very nice people! We enjoyed a cloudy but splendid sunset, from the top of the island. Very romantic!
- So here we are again in Puno for one night, and we'll be on the bus to Cuzco tomorrow morning. We might go to Machu Picchu, or to another less grand but also less touristy Inca site.

Sarah

Ou on devient parrain et marraine / Where we become godparents

Lourdes, our Spanish teacher, has a 2 year old daughter called Daveida, and we've just become her godparents! It was a very simple, non religious mini-ceremony without anyone conducting it: Lourdes' family and us two went to a rock in the middle of Sucre with holy water running from three taps (!), where Corrin, then I, poured a bit of water on Daveida's front and said wishes for her. I loved the simplicity and the truth of it.




















EN FRANCAIS:
Lourdes, notre prof d'espagnol, a une fille de 2 ans, Daveida, et nous sommes devenus ses parrain et marraine! C'etait une mini-ceremonie sans personne pour la conduire, tres simple et non-religieuse : Lourdes, sa famille et nous deux sommes alles a un rocher dans Sucre avec de l'eau benie qui coule de trois robinets (!), ou Corrin, puis moi, avons verse un peu d'eau sur le front de Daveida en lui disant des voeux de bonheur. J'ai adore la simplicite et la "justesse" (je ne trouve pas le mot juste, justement) de ce moment...

Les au revoirs / The goodbyes

Voila, on a quitte Sucre, c'est une belle page de notre voyage qui se tourne... Mais on part avec les meilleurs souvenirs du monde!

Pour moi, cote orphelinat, la fin a ete tres belle. Les filles ont fait une representation des 2 pieces de theatre devant un bon petit public (environ 25!) a l'Alliance Francaise, et c'a ete un succes puisqu'il n'y a pas eu de probleme, pas d'oubli, pas de cafouillage. C'etait beau, avec les costumes et les decors! Les filles ont fait des discours de remerciement pour Emilie et moi a la fin, puisque c'etait notre avant-dernier jour avec elles, et c'etait vraiment tres emouvant...

Mariella, Karen, Adrianna et Maria

Le lendemain, on a fait une petite fete a l'orphelinat: tout le monde s'est deguise, Emilie a fait plein de crepes au sirop d'erable (Canada oblige) avec un groupe de filles, et j'ai fait un enorme apple and banana crumble (mari anglais oblige) avec un autre groupe. C'etait bien sympa!

Au moment de partir, les filles etaient tres emues - et Emilie et moi aussi, et tout le monde a pleure a chaudes larmes... Les volontaires ne restent en general qu'un mois ou deux, et les filles se sont vraiment attachees a nous en 4 mois. Je me sens surtout triste pour la petite Maria Isabel, 3 ans, qui a terriblement besoin d'affection. L'autre jour, elle s'est endormie dans mes bras apres avoir pleure de fatigue

, et j'ai vraiment eu envie de l'emmener a Toulouse avec moi!

Corrin et moi avons egalement organise une soiree de "despedida" (au revoir) sur la terrasse du dernier etage de la maison ou on habite, et c'etait excellent: les etoiles, les bougies, la bonne bouffe, une trentaine de personnes adorables... Apres, on est sortis danser avec de la bonne humeur au coeur!

Quelle chance nous avons d'avoir rencontre tant de gens magnifiques... Je me sens privilegiee! Merci la Bolivie!

Sarah

IN ENGLISH NOW:

That's it, we've left Sucre, but with the best of memories.

The girls of the orphanage did the two plays in front of about 25 people at the Alliance Francaise, and it was a success: no mistakes, no problem. It looked good with the costumes, and the backdrop we'd painted! The girls made a speech of thanks for Emilie and I at the end, because it was our next-to-last day, and that was very moving...
The next day, we had a little fiesta at the orphanage: everybody dressed up, Emilie made loads of crepes with maple syrup (she's canadian) with a group of girls, and I made an enormous apple and banana crumble (my husband being English) with another group. It was fun!

When Emilie and I left, the girls were very moved - and us too, and everybody cried... The volunteers generally stay only a for month or two, so the girls really bonded with us in four months. I feel sad, especially for Maria Isabel, 3 years old, who badly needs affection. A few day ago, she fell asleep in my arms after having cried from tiredness, and I really felt like taking her home with me...

Corrin and I also organized a "despedida" (goodbye party) on the rooftop terrasse of the house where we live, and it was great: the stars, the candles, the good food, and about 30 adorable people... Afterwards, we went out dancing with our hearts full of good mood!

How lucky we are to have met so many lovely people... I feel very privileged! Thank you, Bolivia!

Sarah

End of the bike trip - not visiting Chuquicamata

If you were paying attention to the blog a few weeks ago, you might have been wodering how our bike trip ended, and in fact, if it has ended. Well, it lasted one more week, and in the several weeks since, I haven´t found the motivation to write about it. Fortunately perhaps, it wasn´t especially exciting, so blogging was less justified. Furthermore, the photographs of that week are all on CDs in Sucre, and as we are now in Peru, I can´t add any. This is a shame as we did pass some really spectacular scenery between the deserts of Chile, the salt flats of Bolivia, and the volcanoes in between. But I´m sure you can take my word for that.

After our volcano climbs we spent a couple of days resting in San Pedro de Atcama, while planing our trip back to Sucre, via Uyuni. We had the option of an expensive jeep trip across the desolate southwest of Bolivia, or the weekly train from nearby Calama, via a more northely route. To save money and for a bit of variety, we decided on the train.

Going to Calama gave us the opportunity to visit Chuquicamata copper mine, for which, if not because of which, Calama exists. Chuquicamata is famous for being the largest open cast copper mine in the world (it´s easily spotted on google-earth) at 5km by 3km. It is supposedly the only big asset that was nationalised by left-wing Allende, and not subsequently privatised by Pinochet. It once contributed 33% to Chile´s foreign earnings, though now, as a mature mine, production has fallen slightly in absolute terms, and it was recently overtaken by the young, privately owned, Escondida mine. However, plans are afoot for its expansion to 15km by 5km! This is why Chuquicamata town is in the process of being relocated into Calama. When you see how rich Calama is compared with anywhere in Bolivia, it odd to think that this was one of the more valuable (having both minerals and coastline) of the numerous chunks of territory that Bolivia lost to its stronger neighbours over the years; in this case during the 1880´s War of the Pacific, when Chile also grabbed a bit of Peru.

We wanted to go and look over the edge of the precipice and see some of the monster trucks spiralling slowly up to the rim with their 320 tonne payloads. So we took a taxi along the short straight road between Calama and Chuquicamata, which is the only section of road justifying the blue "expressway" colour on our map of southern Bolivia, northern Chile and northwest Argentina. However it turned out that last minute `industrial´ action had blocked all the entrances, and there was no way we could see the mine. The informative visitor room, and vistor room attendant, eased our pain, but we were disappointed.

We arrived at the train station in good time for the 23h30 departure, so obviously were quite cold by the time of the actual departure at 00h30, and for the next five hours or so it only got colder. A few kilometers out of Calama, we stopped to be shunted back and forth violently for an hour, the result of which was about thirty goods wagons appearing between us and the engine. These made for a very long and slow train. Fortunately, there was only about one passenger per five numbered seats in the single carriage, which enabled us to stretch out in our sleeping bags, and pass a reasonable rather than hellish night in the unheated train. We reached the Chilean border post and village of Ollague around nine, and passed an hour or so having passports stamped and being shunted again. Then we trundled about about 1km to the Bolivian border post, called Avaroa, for a similar process, with additional `admin fee´ (all currencies accepted, if nicely rounded up) for the bloke with the stamp. Many things in Bolivia are named after Don Eduardo Avaroa, the Bolivian hero of Calama, who resisted the Chilean invasion, despite being massively outnumbered, and said something wittily defiant to the Chileans when they suggested he surrender. The border post of Avaroa doesn´t do him many favours. It´s ugly, has one small shop, with the inevitable long-life stock of gaseosa and galletitas (fizzy drink and biscuits), and the rubbish lies around dessicating in the sun. Predicted leaving times came and went, and eventually ceased to seem important. We finally trundled out of Avaroa around seven in the evening and settled down in our sleeping bags again. When we arived in Uyuni at midnight we were aggrieved to find they wouldn´t let us stay sleeping in the carriage. After the complete lack of urgency in getting us to Uyuni in the first place, we couldn´t believe the carriage was so urgently needed elsewhere. Apparently the British-owned rail company who operates the route is obliged to do so by some ancient agreement connected with Chile´s annexing of Bolivian territory, which may have something to do with quality of service.

The following day, Harry and I took our bikes onto the famously vast (another thing) Salar de Uyuni. It is huge and white, and quite beautiful to anyone who hasn´t got lost on it, run out of petrol on it, or got there wheels stuck in a wet bit of it. At this time of year, at the end of the not-very-wet season, there is water around the edge, which means adventures onto the Salar are only for those willing to wash salt from themselves and/or their vehicles. We were among those, so we pedalled a few kilometers onto a damp salar until we couldn´t see where we´d come from, and then headed back with the help of a GPS.

The following day we took a bus to Potosi, where Sarah had kindly arrived from Sucre. It was good to see her after a month, especially for her husband, and especially as she had a fetching new haircut. Her main purpose in Potosi was to take a taxi back to Sucre with our trailers, for which were extremely grateful. This enabled us to ride the back to Sucre the following day, on a paved road, and without trailers.. fantastic! We started at first light, and arrived in Sucre with an hour of light to spare, having covered more ground than we did on the first three days of our trip, when pulling the trailers. It was the perfect way to finish the `bike trip´, and provided some sort of justification for Jorge´s "los valientes" name for us.